YOSEMITE and HALF DOME

This adventurous camping trip involved a 5,000 foot ascent, a very big rock and some frozen fingers! Please read on…

Our friends, Pam and Fred, invited us on a trip they organized to Yosemite National Park. Sure, we've all been to Yosemite. W & H have been twice. The goal of this trip was to hike 9 miles into back country and climb the giant rock called Half Dome which is nearly 9,000 feet high. Half Dome is famous because it can be seen from everywhere in Yosemite and because it is one of the highest points there, AND because lots of crazy people climb its smooth surface using ropes and a few rock screws. In fact, thousands of people do it every year, and so it is necessary to make reservations for a permit to stay at the nearby campground months in advance. October 9th and 10th was the last weekend possible.

H & W will go anywhere with Pam and Fred because they have a lot of experience doing stuff like this. A & G do the logistics, and H & W just follow their directions. First, everyone had to take a day off from work, the reason being that we are no longer spring chickens. Some whipper snappers will do this rock thing, all 18 miles of it, in one day. They carry light packs filled with water and lots of energy bars. We took three days and that involved camping, which in turn involved carrying food, tents and sleeping bags. H. dusted off her backpack from Nepal (it's been 10 years!). W was happy to use his new backpack from REI. They were both ecstatic to borrow warm sleeping bags and a tent from some local friends. Also along with the group were two other couples.

FRIDAY

We carpooled with Pam and Fred (they left their 18 month old son with Aunt and Uncle) to the Park, a 4-5 hour drive from the East Bay. The weather was sunny and promised to stay that way all weekend. The temperature in the sun ranged from 65-75F. We met up with another couple on the road and then convoyed to the long Yosemite Valley, 4,000 ft above sea level. We found the special parking lot, which had bear-proof food containers and trashcans, and parked. After eating as much food as possible, we locked the car (and de-fooded it too, bears have no problem ripping car doors off), hoisted our packs on and began the hike. The trail wound up along the Nevada and Vernal waterfalls, which were still fairly strong in this season. It was a steady hike up except for the stone staircases around the falls, which were very steep.

Arrived in Little Yosemite Valley near dusk. There was a lot to do: set up tents, roll out the mats and sleeping bags and get those little stoves going. Only one communal fire was allowed in the campground, so we had to make a dinner over tiny stoves. We kept it simple - dehydrated stew and bread and lots of cookies for dessert. The temperature dropped to below freezing at night. Some sleeping bags were warm enough, others were not. Warm or not, no one really slept. H kept listening for bears.

SATURDAY

We could tell it was cold because when we got up the next morning, the water bottles were partially frozen. The only fresh water source was the nearby Merced river. The water had to be pumped through a filter or iodized. H got the job of filling up the 5 gallon jug. Having forgotten her gloves, that made for a nippy experience. We shivered until the sun finally came up over Half Dome to warm us up. By then breakfast was over and all the dirty dishes were back in the bear proof container, and we were contemplating how many layers were required for the hike. The sun was out, so some temperature projection was necessary to get out of long johns and sweaters and gloves and into shorts and t-shirts. Four miles up we went to the foot of Half Dome.

As the attached picture (Half Dome - the rock) will show, all we had seen before was a steady line of ants climbing to the top. Now we could see that those ants were people and that though there were cables to hang onto, the climb was very steep. You would think that there would have been no one to compete with for space on the cables, given that we were 9 miles away from a road. But there were hundreds of people milling about. It was like the climb up Mt. Sinai. You think you're alone, because you climb in the wee hours in the dark morning, and then when you're up there, and the sun comes up, you're surrounded by tourists. H & W decided to rush up before they got an attack of vertigo. Right away, they got into a traffic jam. Most people were trying to get up, but there were a few coming down and so one had to stop, rest one foot on a crevice and hang on to the cables for dear life while they edged passed you. At one point H felt that the whole thing was just too steep, and started to shake from exertion and fear. But W urged her on, and anyway, turning around was not an easy option. After a lot of stops and starts, hoisting and panting, we all made it. To the top! There was a big flat space, which looked like a moonscape. It was a big party. We picnicked and watched everyone whip out their cell phones, take advantage of the excellent reception and call to brag about having made it to the top.

The descent was more crowded than the ascent (Half Dome - one mile drop). As we eased down, there were people passing us on both sides. It was tedious and long and H vowed not to entertain the idea of doing this again for at least 10 years. Four miles back to the campsite. We ventured a washcloth bath in the cold river, and felt refreshed. After dinner we looked for satellites and comets in the sky, and then listened to stories around the communal fire. Again that night, sleeplessness and no bear visits. (shucks!)

SUNDAY

It took awhile to get up, warm up and pack up for the hike down to the valley. Contrary to what one might think. Downhill is no fun at all. There is too much pounding on the joints and toes. W, for one, was suffering from blisters. We took the long way, unintentionally, but we found the van in one piece and piled in for the 5 hour trip home. Boy did that hot shower feel good!

N.B. W's toes recovered and he was awarded a special medal from H for surviving his first real backpacking trip. H was walking around like an old lady for only one day after their return!